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MRS. J. A.WILSON & CO. 

Inventors and Sole Proprietors, 
postoffice bus, 981. - Sanjose, Cal 



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FEB .?$ 1885 



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Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1885, 
By J. A. Wilson & Co., 
In the office of tfoe Librarian of Congress, 
at Washington. 



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THE A^T OF DljE^-GUTTfflt 



THERE is no Mechanical Art, the influence of which is 
more widely felt in this progressive age, than the art of 
Dress-Cutting. It has been the aim of the Inventor of this System, to 
produce a square for Dressmakers, to which are attached all necessary 
curves for any pattern, and which may become a standard authority, 
and be recognized throughout the world as one of genuine artistic 
merit Many years of labor and experience have been spent in 
making it the most practical System for cutting ladies' garments that 
has ever been invented. The diagrams which accompany this System 
are scientific in principle, geometrically correct, and entirely com- 
prehensive. 

Perfection in drafting and cutting Ladies' dresses has at last 
been accomplished. It is acknowledged by some of the most experi- 
enced Dressmakers in Chicago and elsewhere, as complete in every 
detail, and the most perfect invention of its kind that has ever been 
produced. In fact, it is claimed by the inventor as being entirely 
beyond the reach of competition, when its accurate and scientific 
principles shall have been more widely known in its improved form, 
and by its new title, "Wilson's New Tailor-System of Dress-Cutting." 

By this System the art of Dress Cutting has been placed within 
the reach of all. The humblest sewing girl, or poorly paid clerk can 
master all its details, and rise at once to the prosperous condition 
of those who have achieved success only by long years of toil, and by 
the old and laborious methods. The wave^ of adversity often dash 
with sudden violence over those who have been reared in affluence. 
It is wise therefore for even the wealthy to provide against want when 
Fortune smiles. A knowledge of an art so simple and yet so useful 
as Dress-Cutting, might preserve, as it many times has done, a happy 
home when Fortune frowned. The simple adaptation of plain inches 



to measures is a valuable feature of this System, while nothing of a 
scientific character has been omitted. The inventor fully believes 
that he has now achieved the ultimatum of success in the art and sci- 
ence of giving correct shapes in Ladies attire, and that the "Human 
Form Divine" can at last be draped in garments of accurate pro- 
portions, and in the graceful curves which add so much to its beauty. 

Each piece of material is so shaped to the form in artistic pro- 
portion, that when sewed into place, the entire garment cannot fail 
to display the elegance of the figure, while ease and comfort will be 
found to be not least among the valuable features. 

The Inventor has well earned the thanks of an appreciative 
public, and will no doubt receive that grateful reward, as well as a 
"Golden Harvest" from every part of the civilized world. Toiling 
millions will hail with delight this labor-saving invention, and there 
will be no home in the land, where the introduction of Wilson's 
New Tailor-System of Dress-Cutting will not be welcomed as a 
source of immediate and lasting pleasure. 

The Proprietors feel confident therefore, that this System will 
meet with the success and the extensive patronage which it deserves, 
and that its progressive influence will long be felt in every land where 
art in dress is a prominent factor in society. 

The prices of the System have been fixed as follows : 
One System, with personal Instruction at our rooms, - $10 oo 
" u by Mail, with Book of Instructions, - - 5 00 

These prices are very moderate. The personal instruction will be 
given by the inventor, and the valuable hints in Dress-Cutting will 
alone be worth more than the price paid. The latter price is made 
to enable those residing at a distance, to avail themselves of this val- 
uable System, a complete guide to learn which is the Book of Instruc- 
tions, always sent with it to take the place of personal instruction. 
Our Book of Instructions is full and complete, and contains diagrams 
like those on this circular, having the lines so lettered and numbered 
and the dots so located that a child can easily learn them in a few 
hours. 

We want good local and general Agents in all parts of the 
United States, to whom we offer liberal inducements, and exclusive 
territory when desired. 

All orders, remittances and correspondence should be addressed to 

MRS. J. A. WILSON & CO,, 

INVENTORS AND SOLE PROPRIETORS OF SAN TOSE CAL 

WILSON'S NEW TAILOR-SYSTEM J ' 

OF DRESS-CUTTING. 



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WILSON'S 1 rf 

New Tailor System | 

Of Dress Cutting, | 

The ONLY System that Drafts ^ 

the Genuine Tailor-Cut p3 

Garments. O 

S^Study Your Own Interest and ^ 

Learn the Correct System. W 

Agents wanted everywhere. Address, P 2 

with stamp, for full description, P 

J. A. WILSON* Co., % 

Inventors and Sole Proprietors, H 
SAN JOSE, CAL. g 

P. O. BOX 981. 










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Depth of Armhole .. 


iH 












Width of Back 


6i 














Advance 


11 














Chest 


17 














Bust 


18 














Waist 


24 














Rise 


8 














Length of Back 


16 














Shoulder 


15 














Neck 


12- 














Front 


19 














Hip 


41 














Sleeve 


12 














Sleeve 


10 














Skirt 


40 
















How to Take the Measures 

AND LEAEN TO TAKE THEM IN ROTATION JUST AS THEY ARE HERE. 

First, tie a large cord around the waist well down. _ 

Second, set a pin in the center of the back level with the bot- 
tom of the arm pits (this pin is dot 2 on the draftings), and you 
can get it by placing a tape line around the bust, have the tape 
well up under the arms and straight across the back. 

Depth of armhole is the first measure, and is taken from that 
most prominent bone on back neck, and over the shoulder and 
down to the hench of the arm. (See dot 2 on the diagram.) 

Width of back is taken about two inches above the pin (or 
dot 2 on the diagram) and take the width of back as long as you 
want to cut the shoulder. 

Advance measure is taken from the pin in the center of the 
back (see dot 2 on diagram) to dot 1 or hench of the arm. 

Chest measure is taken from the pin in center of the back 
and above fullest part of bust, and must be taken tight. 

Bust measure is taken from the same point before you move 
the tape and over the fullest part of bust. 

Waist measure is taken around smallest part of the waist, and 

tight. .ii ii 

Kise OF back is taken from that most prominent bone on back 
of the neck down to the pin in center of back. 

Length of back is continued straight on down before you re- 
move tape from back neck, and down to cord around waist. 

Shoulder measure is taken from the pin in the center of the 
back and around over point of shoulder and down to the hench 
of the arm in front. (See dot 1 in diagram.) 

Neck, around the neck inside of the collar. 

Front measure is taken from the most prominent bone on 
back neck arornd and down to center of front at cord. 

Hip measure is taken about five inches below the waist, me- 
dium tight. . 

Sleeve measure is taken from where you lelt oil taking the 
width of the back to the elbow and from the elbow down to the 
bone on the wrist. 

Skirt is taken from the cord in front to the floor. 




Instruction for Drafting, 



First commence the drafting from the right hand corner of 
the paper, and draw lines A and B about 20 inches long, and the 
width of the square from edges of paper, as you see them in the 
diagram 

Line C is drawn 11% inches (or depth of armhqle) from line B. 

Line D is drawn 6 J inches (or width of back) from line A. 

Line E is drawn li inches (or distance of advance measure) 
from, line A. 

Line F is drawn 17 inches (or distance of chest measure) 
from line A. 

Line G is drawn one-half the distance between lines E and F, 
as you see. 

Now make dot 1 at the junction of lines E and C; this is a 
particular point we measure to, and is called the hench of the arm. 

Next we will make dot 2 at the junction of lines A and C, 
which is also a particular point we measure from, and is located 
when taking the measure by placing a pin in the center of the 
back level with the arm pits. 

Line H, measure up 8 inches (or rise of back) from dot 2 and 
make dot 3, which is called center of back neck. (Now see 
back neck numbers on the square) and the distance between 
the neck number and the arrow at the inside corner of the 
square is the length of line H, then rise \ inch and make dot 4. 

Line I is drawn one-half the distance between dots 2 and 3. 
Now make dot 5 on line D, one inch above line I, and make dot 
6 one-half the distance between dot 5 and line C. Next get the 
curved shape and place arrow 6 on dot 3 and draw a curved line 
to dot 4. 



Line J place arrow 8 on dot 4 and draw a curved line, passing 
over dot 5 one-fourth inch. 

Line K is drawn by two applications with the curved shape, 
first starting at K, touching dot 6 and 5, and is drawn with the 
scale upside down (see curve for armhole on scale), and is to be 
continued by turning the scale over from K, touching line E, 
when you get dot 10. 

Dot 7 is located the depth of armhole measure from dot 1, 
less the distance between dots 3 and 4. 

Dot 8 is located from dot 1 the distance of shoulder measure, 
less the distance from dots 2 to 5. 

Line L is pivoted from dot 1 with a string or tape line, as per 
dotted line on the diagram. 

Now make dot 10 on line L from dot 7 the distance of line J. 

Line M is drawn by placing arrow 3 on dot 7 and draw a curved 
line to dot 10. (See front shoulder curve on the curved shape.) 
Now see instructions for continuing line K. 

Line N is drawn with the same curve you made the armhole 
with, and let the amount in the back neck extend above dot 7 
and figure 6, or one-half of neck measure resting on line F,then 
draw line N,as you see it, and make dot 9; also make dot 11 at 
junction of lines C and F. 

Lines O and P first make point O at one-half of bust measure 
from dot 2, and | inch more for P. Now draw a straight line 
from dot 9 to point O, then place arrow 5 (see curved shape) on 
dot 9 and draw to P. 



See Diagram on Next Page. 

Line Q or waist line measure from dots 3 to 12 the actual 
length of back measure and draw line Q the length of the 
square, then make dot 1& 1J inches from dot 12, and 1| inches 
between dots 13 and 14. Now place arrow 1 (see short'arm of 
square) on dot 14 and make dot 15 at number 24, or waist mea- 
sure. 

The curved lines in the back are drawn by placing arrow 7 on 
dot 6 and draw to dot 13, (see curved shape) then make dot 19 
where the lines cross. Next slide arrow 7 down to dot 19 and 
draw another curved line to dot 14. 

Dot 16 is made 1 \ inches from dot 1 and square down a straight 
line to dot 17. 

Dot 18 is made one-half inch from dot 17 and draw a straight 
line from 16 to 18. 

Dot 20 is made one-half the distance between dots 6 and 16- 
simply by the eye, then square down a straight line and make 
dot 21; also draw a straight line from dot 20 to 15. 

Now continue line O straight down to the waist line and make 
dot 22; continue line P also to dot 22. 

Dot 23 is just 4 inches below letter P. 




, .' 



11 

Dot 24 is just 9 inches below dot 12 straight down. 

Dot 25 is just 1J inches from dot 24 

Dot 27 is the same distance from dot 25 as from dot 2 to 19. 

Dot 26 get the center of the dart and dot down 4 inches for 26. 

Now take the curved shape and place arrow 3 on dot 26 and 
draw a curved line to dot 21, then turn the scale over and draw a 
line from 26 to 15 in the same way. 

Next draw a straight line from dot 14 to 24, and from 24 to 26. 
Also from dot 12 to 25 and from 13 to 27. (The broken line from 
dots 25 to 27 is to represent no particular length. ) 

Dot 28 is square down 4 inches below dot 17. 

Dots 29 and 30 is one inch on each side of dot 28. 

Place arrow 3 on dot 29 and draw a curved line to dot 18, then 
turn scale over and draw another line likewise from dot 30 to 17, 
then draw a straight line from 26 to 30. 

Dot 31 is 9 inches below dot 22 and pitched from dot 11, then 
draw a straight line from 22 to 31 and from 31 to 29. 

Line E, is drawn long enough to give you the height of the 
darts, and is pitched from dots 2 to 23. 

Dot 32 is If inches from dot 22, and 33 is 2 inches from 32 
and I of an inch between dots 33 and 34, and 2 inches from 34 
to 35. 

Dot 36 square down a straight line from 32 and make 36. 

Dot 37 is 1 inch from 36. 

Dot 38 is 1|- inches from 37. 

Dot 39 is 1 inch from 38. 

Now draw a straight line from dots 33 to 37, and from 34 to 
38, and from 35 to 39. 

Dot 40 is square above dot 33. 

Dot 41 is square above dot 35. 

Now place arrow 8 (see curved shape) on dot 32 and draw a 
curved line to dot 40, and from 34 to 41 in the same way; then 
turn scale around and let arrow 5 pass below dot 33 about one 
inch, and draw a curved line to dot 40, then draw from dot 35 to 
41 just the same. 



Hoist to get the Size of the two Front Darts. 

Measure the amount in the three darts already established, add 
the same to one-half of waist measure, and make a dot on line 
A, from dot 12 and all that remains from last dot to dot 22 must 
be taken up in the two front darts, and spaced off from dot 22 on 
line Q, as heretofore described on diagram, seven, nine or ele- 
ven seams are all done in the same way. 

Polonase close the darts. 



12 



How to Trace Out a Lining. 

Before you commence tracing see that you have a tracing wheel 
and a good soft board to trace on. 

Now place the drafting upon the lining and be sure that you 
get the waist line running straight with the thread of the goods, 
and commence tracing on the front piece, starting at dofc 7 and 
to 9 and 22, and 31, then from 7 to 10 and to 16 and 18 and 29, 
and from 29 to 31 and from 18 to 22, then the two darts. 

Now lift your drafting and cut this piece allowing \ inch for 
seams on all the different pieces, excepting the neck and arm-hole 
which is cut on the tracing, and in front allow one inch for facing. 

Next trace the center back piece commmence at dot 3 and to 
12 and 25 then from 3 to 4 and from 4 to 5, and from 5 to 6 and 
from 6 to 13 and 27 and 12 to 13, now cut this piece and allow 
for seams except neck and arm-hole. 

Next is side form, trace from dot 6 to 14 and 24, and from 24 
to 26, and 26 to 15, and 15 to 20, and 20 to 6, and from 14 to 15 ; 
be careful and see that the waist lire runs with the thread of the 
goods, then cut this piece, allow for seams, except arm-hole. 

Next is the under arm piece, starting at 16 and to 20 and 21 
and 26, and from 26 to 30, then 16, 17 and 30, and from 17 to 21, 
now cut this piece as you did the others. 

Next, place the lmeing you have just cut out on the goods and 
cut the goods by the lining, and be careful when you baste it up, 
and sew it precisely on the tracing wheel mark. 



IS 




How to Draft the Sleeve. 

First measure the arm-hole on the drafting wiih a tape line, 
and make the sleeve-head one inch larger than the arm-hole. 

Line A is drawn from arrow one to arrow two (see curved 
shape) before moving scale, dot in eyelets one and one, for line B, 
also dot in eyelet 17 for 16-inch arm-hole. 

Line C is drawn from arrow one, to dot 3 (see diagram.) 

Line D is drawn by placing arrow 4 on dot 3, and drawn to 
dot 2. 

Now continue line A, the distance from shoulder to elbow. 

Line E is squared from line A to no particular length. 

Line B is drawn over the two dots made in eyelets one and 
one, to line E. 

Line F is drawn from dot 3, parallel with line B, (simply by 
the eye.) Now measure from elbow straight down 4 inches and 
from you If inches, for the crookedness of the sleeve, (see dots 4 and 
5 on the diagram) then continue line A the distance from elbow 
down passing over dot 5. 

Lines^B and F are also continued parallel with the last line 
you made. 

Line G, is squared across the end. 

NOTICE. — The top of the sleeve and the under side are 
drafted together, in order to separate them; trace under side 
through on another piece of paper with a tracing wheel. 

Locate the sleeve when you sew it in by placing the roundest 
part of the sleeve on top of the shoulder, and the sleeve being- 
one inch larger than the arm-hole, you want to hold the fullness 
in over the top of the shoulder while sewing it in, and wken you 
trace the sleeve out ease out the corners at the elbow with the 
wheel as per dotted lines on diagram. 



MMHMMi HI,Ha 



u 

We Also Manufacture Tracing Wheels 

And furnish them to Agents at Lowest Wholesale Prices. 

The wheels are long sharp spurs and the best of steel, by 
which you can perforate half a dozen thicknessess of lineing at 
one time, and the wheels are put in with a screw, not a revet. 
Retail price 35cts. All order and all correspondence should be 
addressed to J. A. WILSON & CO., 

P. O. Box, 981. San Jose, Cal. 



NOTICE— We furnish FREE of charge new diagrams as the 
fashions change for every garment to every person using our 
New Tailor System of Cutting, with full printed instructions for 
drafting it. Send us your name and your address to 

MRS. J. A. WILSON & CO., 



INVFNTORS AND SOLE PROPRIETORS OF 

QN's NEW TAILOR-SY: 

OF DRESS-CUTTING. 



SAN JOSE, CAL. 

WILSON'S NEW TAILOR-SYSTEM J 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




Ml! Ill III! 
013 964 939 4 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




Hollinger Corp. 
pH8.5 



